Nawlins

Truly, I have work to thank for my trip to New Orleans. In January of this year and last, I attended a very exciting and interesting booksellers conference. Last year it was in D.C., where winter chilled my long walks along the National Mall. This year, the Institute found its home in New Orleans, one of the friendliest, most beautiful cities I've ever visited. Before this trip, I'd never been, but long desired to go for the parties, the music, and the food. Of course, now, I can imagine a visit to New Orleans has more meaning than it once did.

The recent devastation from Hurricane Katrina is an unavoidable reality. As my airplane made its final descent above the Gulf and then over the Mississippi River, the hairs on my neck stood straight up as I thought of the tragedy. How could something so horrific happen? How can one city see so much death, displacement, horror and unfairness? My time in the city was short (given that I was mostly in a hotel working), but I couldn't get these questions out of my head.

Any chance I got to explore the city, I took. The questions kept coming: how could New Orleans endure such a disaster, how did they/can they recover and will it ever be the same? Perhaps it can be better? Well, I don't have the answers and I'd say the term 'recovery' stands on a very long, complicated spectrum when it comes to Katrina. I wandered the streets, feeling conflicted about my role as a tourist knowing what once happened under this sky.

I made my way to Jackson Square and sat quietly on a park bench, watching the busy streets take flight. Magicians did tricks, drunken party-goers sipped drinks, and horse-drawn carriages trotted down lanes. Then, I heard it. Music. Horns. Jazz. I heard the music and felt it on my skin the way I felt the hot muggy air surrounding me, very uncharacteristic weather for January.

My thoughts shifted. Questions of why and when turned into questions of how. Does music have the power to heal? I suddenly felt the power of this city, with its history and its culture. I felt a power, but I wasn't sure what to make of it and what it meant. I'm out of my element, but I'm loving this city and feeling loved by it.

I stood up and continued wandering the streets of the French Quarter. This city has come a long way, and I know that there's still a long road. Possibly an endless one. However, I can't help but think some balance can be found between the melodies and the dissonance I heard in that square, coming out of that lone saxophone.



There was lots to love in NOLA. Besides the music, the food and street partying, I was really taken by the architecture.



It felt like another era and most definitely another world.



I saw a lot of homes like this one and I thought the same thing each time: how can I get up on that balcony and enjoy a mint julep with the locals? On a hot summer day (which it wasn't, though the mugginess and sunshine was reminiscent of one) I couldn't imagine doing anything more appropriate.



Once you've wandered long enough, you start to get the feeling: I've been here before. Maybe it's because the architecture is so distinct and consistent, or maybe it's because the structures (like the essence of the city) are sultry and intoxicating.



Speaking of sultry, I lost all sense and literally floated into Bourbon French Parfume, a 164 year old perfumery. With all of its alluring smells, I got caught up inhaling their signature scents: La Vie Nouvelle, La Pluie and Mon Amour. You forget where you are and how you came to this place.



This was one of the many incredible works of art at Armstrong Park. Since I had such a short amount of time in the city, I felt my visit needed some guidance. Before I went, I remembered how one week GOOP (yes, Gwyneth's blog) did a piece on New Orleans. In fact, R.E.M.'s Michael Stipe was the guest editor on the post. Little did I know that he would be my guru, leading me through my journey. Well, he was, in a major way. I followed his guidance as if he was a good friend and, honestly, by the end of the trip, he felt like one.



Despite the grid-like design to the French Quarter, it's easy to get lost. I wasn't lost though, because I had Michael Stipe to follow. He told me where to get a good bowl of Gumbo, at Coops:



A good dose of health food, at Satsuma:



Some great coffee and sweets, at Croissant d'Or:



Ah, sweets...



This was the only time it snowed while I was in New Orleans. Each bite and it was a winter wonderland. I loved it!



Other wise, it was HOT HOT HOT!



While for some people, it's about the drinking...



...for me it was about the sunshine in winter. That, and the music...



The music. Hearing it as I walked along every street, around every corner, and even in my hotel room as I went to sleep (they give you ear plugs upon check-in). I felt soothed and enlivened at the same time. I felt part of this gorgeous city.

One last and final perfect moment: my last night in the city, I went to Buffa's for dinner (another Stipe recommendation). As I sat there enjoying Chuck's award-winning Bratwurst Jambalaya and Boudin Balls, someone put R.E.M.'s "It's the End of the World As We Know It" on the jukebox. It was perfection.

Yes, No, Yes, NOLA

Hello again! I've been on a business trip in New Orleans for the past few days, hence the lack of posts. It was my first time in the city, first time in Louisiana, first time in the Deep South! It was so amazing!!! I'm too tired to post now (4 a.m. wake-up calls are no joke). Check in soon, though, to see all the things I found in what was one of the liveliest, craziest, most bumpin' cities I've ever set eyes and ears on!

Toe Dip and the Real Hip

You know what I don't have? An iPhone. I don't even have a smart phone. I have, what one day people will scratch their heads trying to remember the word for, a flip-phone. It's supremely inconvenient to have a "dumb" phone, but it's a way for me to remain unplugged a little longer before I completely give-in.

Aside from feeling anachronistically uncool, there is one thing about not having an iPhone that bums me out. I don't have the cool camera! Who would have known that a camera phone could be so awesome and serve so many purposes? Basically, I love, love, love (and covet) Hipstamatic. Luckily, I can benefit from the app once in a while because my friends, unlike me, are members of the planet Earth.

This past week one of my favorite humans on this planet Earth, Rachel, was visiting. She wanted to do all of my favorite things with me, wanted to come to exercise class with me, wanted to eat all the yummy SF food AND she took amazing photos with her "hip" app. I barely had to take any pics of my own because I knew hers would be the coolest. She captured the dreamy flowiness (made-up word, I know) of the weekend. The pics appear vintage, worn and ripe with discovery. I cherish them all.



Seashells from the seashore.



Coffee from Trouble.



Succulents in the greenhouse.



Sarah and me, calmly caffeinated (oxymoron, but nonetheless...).



It was so nice to have Rach in town. Not only does she make me belly laugh, but she really grounds me. She lives far away, but it's a long distance relationship that has no distance at all. Having her visit was an absolute treat and I feel so lucky that she ventured out to the West. During her time here I felt so calm, nourished and relaxed. All the feelings I had are completely sustainable, given that I still feel it all. Notice I've switched from hipstamatic to my own camera? I had to squeeze a few of these in.



Dipping our toes in the Pacific at Ocean Beach.



Another INSANE lunch at Outerlands.



The gorgeously curated General Store.



"Sunshine, daydream" is what I like to call this pic. By the way, thanks Sarah and Rach, for convincing me to buy the clogs! When I wear them, it feels like I've slipped love onto my feet. And they'll forever remind me of our toe dip in the Pacific!

Love you, Rach! Miss you already, xoxo

Searching for Tea

I'm in the market for a new tea kettle. My current one spills all over the place when I pour water to make coffee. Luckily, my lovely friend Rachel gave me this article for guidance. Do you, readers, have a favorite kettle that you use? I'd love the suggestions.

Thanks, Rach, for finding the article and for taking this gorgeous photo! xoxo

A Little Bit

Every once in a while I get a little bit excited about fashion. It's definitely not a passion of mine, but it's so lovely to feel stylish. To appreciate the beauty of something that is worn, not just seen from a far or heard in the air, like music. To revel in the hem of a dress, or the seam of a stocking. To get dressed up.

Something beautiful worn on the body is like wearing a divine piece of art. When I'm feeling dreamy about fashion and imaging myself adorning a fantastic street look, I venture over to French Vogue where fashion flows endlessly. I came across these Nina Ricci looks and just about swooned. Feel free to swoon as well, possibly while listening to this song?









Oh, to indulge! I would LOVE to hear which looks are your favorites. Please feel free to share with me. I'll tell you now, the 3rd look might be my current fave, but it changes by the minute. Thoughts???

Potrero Peace and Plow

There are so many different types of days. There are work days, holi-days, vacation days, good days, bad days. There are days when we are scheduled to the hour, without a minute to breathe. There are days when there are no plans, yet we are still unable to relax. It's as if relaxing is your one, single goal that there's too much pressure to achieve. Then there are days when everything falls into place. When spontaneity calls and you answer. When you forgot to tell yourself to relax and then, suddenly, you relaxed.



You eat your French Toast from Plow before your savory egg dish arrives because you tell yourself: that's how the Europeans do it. Like pasta before salad. Or dinner at midnight.



You meander through the aisles of a bookstore, only stopping when you see the ever-classic combination of words: Shakespeare. Love. Sonnets. You forget what once existed, because everything is new. Even that which is hundred of years old.



You feel so loving towards your friends and everything that feels real. I loved seeing Anne Zimmerman's An Extravagant Hunger in the cooking section at Christopher's Books. I loved seeing it face-out, booming like the sunshine.



You feel the sunshine and see the blue sky on a clear day. Addresses, apartments, houses, locations, all seem relevant. People's places are theirs, and yours to dream about. Imagine of. First you think you know what's inside, then remembering you don't know what happens behind closed doors. Even when you're behind them, you still sometimes have no clue what's going on.



You're very behind on trends, hipness and what's cool. You wait until you're ready. You save the goodness for a day when you need something, guaranteed to blow your mind. Because everyone's mind was already blown. So you know that, one day, so will yours. You wait, though, because you can.



You remember why you walked slowly today. Why you waited an extra ten minutes without even trying. Why you forgot the time, which made you always on time. Why you didn't plan, agonize or worry. You remember why you wore the wrong shoes, why you didn't mind sweating. Why you smiled at someone across the street and laughed when sidewalk traffic got too close.

Why you once made rules and broke them. You remember why you stopped in your tracks. Why you peered through the fence, past the bleachers and the broken beer bottle. Why you felt, in that one moment, a joy, a peace, a happiness. You felt silent and then remembered why you keep on going.

Downton Abbey

I've been waiting for this! The new season of Downton Abbey premieres this weekend. Not only did Season 1 end with some major cliff-hangers, but I just can't wait for another season of this satisfying and gorgeous show. By the way, I absolutely adore this picture of the Grantham sisters, which can be found here. Like most eager fans, I'm so curious as to what comes next in the whole saga. I would love to hear everyone's thoughts on what my Mom calls a "delicious and addictive television series." Have you seen? Will you watch? Like me, are you counting down the minutes???